HOW SUSTAINABLE IS VEGAN LEATHER

In sustainable fashion there is a lot of concern around the use of cow leather. With ethical and environmental issues a plenty, many have turned to vegan leather for an animal and environmentally friendly option. But how sustainable actually is vegan leather? The unfortunate truth is that artificial leather requires plastics in order to be flexible, strong and water-resistant – meaning it isn’t 100% biodegradable. However, with plant-based leathers being a relatively new venture, there is hope to eradicate this reliance on plastic. In fact, one supplier, Nature Fibre Welding, is already soaring ahead with this mission. This article delves into the complexities of vegan leather, and provides insights on the most sustainable ways to source leather.

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Part 1: The problem with vegan leather

Vegan leather appears to be the perfect replacement for cow leather. It requires fewer resources, has a much smaller carbon footprint, and is energy and water efficient. However, the use of plastics knocks it off its pedestal. Cheap vegan leather, found in fast fashion stores, is most likely made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), coined as the ‘poison plastic’ by Greenpeace.  The production, use and disposal of PVC releases toxic, chlorine-based chemicals which build up in the water, air and food-chain. This is no worse than the unnatural tanning process of cow leather, that coats the material in plastic and uses chemicals like chromium salts, producing toxic waste water. These processes make both of these leathers non-biodegradable and unsustainable.

So, whilst this cheap vegan leather is sparing animals’ lives, its toxic byproducts make it just as bad for the environment. Another option is using polyurethane (PU), which doesn’t require the same toxic chemicals and can degrade over time. PU production isn’t perfect, but it is a much greener option and, when combined with plant fibres, makes many promising fake leathers.

Part 2: Introduction to plant-based leather

It is incredible the number of creative plant-based sources that have been discovered for crafting leather. For instance, mushroom, cactus, grape, apple, pineapple, cork, and mulberry tree leaves can all been transformed into leather. These resources are either sustainably farmed or are waste products being given a new life. Generally, plant matter is processed into a mixture that is applied to a textile (commonly cotton), and coated with PU to make it water-resistant, durable, and distinctively leather-like.

It is only their reliance on PU that tarnishes these leathers’ sustainable status, as it means they are not 100% biodegradable and will remain in landfill. However, it is important to remember that these products are new to the market, and the producers are working hard to find a plastic-free solution. Additionally, even with PU, they remain less harmful to the environment than the cow leather industry.

Part 3: The future of sustainable leather

Excitingly, there is one 100% plant-based leather on the market, and more in development. MIRUM by Natural Fibre Welding is made from plant waste (such as cork, charcoal, coconut husk, soybean oil and natural rubber) that is welded together using biodegradable polymers and pressed onto a natural fabric backer. It is the first of its kind to completely avoid the use of plastics, making it 100% naturally circular - at the end of its life it will biodegrade and return to the earth.

Also progressing with the plastic-free agenda, Biophilica are working to make leather from agricultural, forestry and urban plant waste; whilst using only 1% of the water that regular leather production does. And, whilst not strictly vegan, TômTex are using chitosan - a biopolymer made from food industry by-products of mushroom waste and shrimp shells - and melting it down to create an innovative sustainable leather.

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In conclusion, vegan leathers are a hopeful alternative to cow leather. But it is important to remain aware that they still have a way to go before they are truly sustainable. MIRUM represents the future of sustainable leather, having successfully created a circular, fully biodegradable, plant-based leather. At Good People, we are conscious of remaining sustainable in all we do, and so will be careful in our selection of leather as we expand to new fabrics.

For more detail on the leathers discussed in this article, a table has been included below showing the main producer; the process; the percentage of the leather that is plant (not plastic); and examples of brands that use said leather in their products.

Written by Phoebe Court

References:

• Roma Kundle, “What to know about vegan leather”, WebMD, Nov. 2022, Available from: https://www.webmd.com/a-to-z-guides/what-to-know-about-vegan-leather (Accessed 23-07-2024)
• PETA, “Vegan leather: What it is and why it belongs in your closet”, Available from: https://www.peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/what-is-vegan-leather/ (Accessed 23-07-24)
• Gia Yetikyel, “What is vegan leather?”, Vogue, Dec. 2023, Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/what-is-vegan-leather (Accessed 23-07-24)
• Lucianne Tonti, “Plant or plastic? How to decode vegan leather alternatives”, The Guardian, Feb. 2023, Available From: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/mar/01/plant-or-plastic-how-to-decode-vegan-leather-alternatives (Accessed 23-07-24)
• Annick Ireland, “What is vegan leather made of – and is it sustainable?”, Immaculate Vegan, Jun. 2024, Available from: https://immaculatevegan.com/blogs/magazine/what-is-vegan-leather-made-of-and-is-it-sustainable (Accessed 23-07-24)
• Sascha Camilli, “Biodegradable vegan leather? Yes, it exits!”, Immaculate Vegan, May. 2023, Available from: https://immaculatevegan.com/blogs/magazine/biodegradable-vegan-leather-yes-it-exists?rfsn=6303515.b66274&utm_source=refersion&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=6303515.b66274 (Accessed 23-07-24)
• Image 1: collection on plants/fruit used to make leather, with the leather product  https://www.rahui.com/blogs/vegan-leather-types/plant-based-vegan-leathers
• Image 2: grape, cactus and muchroom leather examples  https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/sustainability/vegea-grape-based-alternative-to-animal-leather.html , https://www.designboom.com/design/desserto-cactus-vegan-leather-06-26-2020/ , https://www.instyle.com/ethical-sustainable-leather-6741208
• Image 3: mirum leather https://www.fastcompany.com/90350186/this-fully-biodegradable-leather-is-welded-together-from-waste